Volubilis was first established by the Romans in the 3rd century BC — supported 20,000 inhabitants. It is on a hill with a comprehensive view in all directions.The Roman Basilica is most prominent as a partially restored grand structure.There is a lot of room to stretch in the Capitoline Temple — dedicated to Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. 13 steps to the massive Corinthian columns… ‘I rule all that I see!’Triumphal Arch, built in AD 217, to honor Emperor Caracalla, overlooks the fertile agricultural plains — one of the main reasons the Romans chose this site.The House of Venus — once the most opulent house in Volublis — with a palm tree in the garden. This city is huge as you can see.This all important olive oil press was restored and is similar to those used for many millenniums.We were very excited to see all the mosaics. This beautiful incomplete one is of Dionysus — located in the House of the Knight.Look at the detail in this mosaic! Called: House of the Athlete.This mosaic was really unique and titled the Nine Dolphins –symbolizing good luck.The photographer is capturing the mosaic of Orpheus, charming the animals with his lyre.We found a quiet spot to take a break and contemplate all that we had seen.And enjoy the spring flowers — maybe these are a native white asphodel. Maybe the Romans encouraged the Asphodel Meadows after they read Homer’s Odyssey…
We leave the Sahara behind and head north through the breathtaking Ziz Gorge towards Fes. It brought to mind the canyons of the southwest USA.This southern area is very rich with fossils – we felt like we were driving through the Tucson Gem and Mineral show.And then there is snow in the Middle Atlas Mountains! Imagine in the past 7 hours we went from the Sahara, thru Morocco’s Grand Canyon and apple orchards, to the snow covered forest — what a diverse landscape.We had a rainy day in Ifrane but enjoyed a Resort lifestyle. This is dubbed the Switzerland of Morocco.Ifrane National Park with overflowing waterfalls — beautiful Cascades des ViergesThe waterfalls are all quite breathtaking.Next to the river, we met some locals and swap photo ops.Wow. The power of water! This side of the mountains seems to get a lot of moisture.Nearby towards Azrou, we head through Cedre Gouraud Forest NP. The cedar trees are very majestic.There were a lot of sheep — more than we have seen anywhere else — near Azrou & Cedre Gouraud Forest NP.Of course there is the proud papa Ram strutting with his flock.Outside Azrou, we were on the rim looking over mountains, valleys and fertile fields. We are definitively experiencing a more lush Morocco.
Sunrise in the Sahara! The Erg Chebbi Dunes are part of the largest desert on earth.Timbuktu 52 days by camel caravan…These Khettara Irrigation Access Shafts are near Hassilabied. This is part of an ancient system of tunnels that brought groundwater to the Sahara.The irrigation channels in the Hassilabied Palmeraie — date palms with the almond trees in blossom as well as some of the other crops.Footsteps in the sand — the strong overnight wind has erased all trace of those that have walked before us. Erg Chebbi DunesThe sun is intense as it rises… Magical shadows and the changing colors of the sand. Erg Chebbi DunesWe explored south into the dry desert landscape to the end of the pavement. One day we took a 4×4 jeep tour to explore offroad deeper into the dunes……We visited a Berber Nomad Camp with lots of goats. The little kids were quite friendly and curious. This is a harsh life for all……We toured an abandoned French lead mine as well as the ghost town they left behind. Now Pyrite and Quartz are the main minerals mined in the area.What a calm day to visit Dayet Srji Lake! You can see the dunes rising in the background. This is a seasonal lake — only here in the winter from the rains and snow melt in the mountains — much larger than we expected.Hassilabied Apartment Hotel is our oasis in the Sahara desert! We enjoyed our spacious apartment very much and the six friendly brothers that owned it.After an amazing Berber omelette breakfast, the patient chef showed me how to make the chicken Tajine for our next meal. That is two red onions that go in first….then the marinated chicken is topped with potatoes, carrots, zucchini, and tomato.The staff celebrates the preparation of the Tajine! The friendly young man in blue is our waiter – he has a Bachelor degree in law but wants a job working with tourists.Mouthwatering bubbling delicious chicken Tajine!!!Perfection in the wind carving.“I’ve always loved the desert. One sits on a sand dune. One sees nothing, hears nothing. And yet something silently glows…” from The Little Prince – Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Kelaat M’Gouna or Valley of Roses is beautiful with very unique exposed geologic layering and uplifting.We enjoyed a day exploring the valley and hanging out by the M’Goun river.Valley of Roses does have rose colored rocks but it is really named for growing the Damask Roses. This is an interesting article about their Rose Festival.This rock outcropping looks like a rose.There is intensive agriculture in the irrigated valley in addition to growing the profitable roses. Our riad — Dar Timitar — is visible in the background on the top of the hill.That is our Dar Timitar balcony below the roof terrace as we view the Full Moon setting from yet another roof terrace.We also enjoyed a few spectacular sunsets from the roof terraces as well as some wonderful home cooking. A very enjoyable family to stay with.We took a day trip to nearby Dadès Gorges, where the river was running pretty full — from the snow-melt coming off the High Atlas mountains.There are some very interesting geological formations here like these the locals call ‘Monkey Fingers’ – Dadès Gorges.Another view of the massive eroding ‘Monkey Fingers’ in Dadès Gorges.As we climbed further up the valley, it was interesting looking back on the dry topography. Dadès GorgesThere are so many special places — and roads — in the High Atlas Mountains that we have enjoyed exploring!
We left the Atlantic coast and headed through the Saffron growing valley and to the dry leeward side of the High Atlas Mountains.The Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou — Listed as a World Heritage by UNESCO in 1987 — is an iconic Pisé (adobe and raw brick) pre-Saharan architecture village. This view is famous for the many movies it has been used as an iconic backdrop. Link for more architectural details.Lawrence of Arabia’s camels? Aït Ben Haddou is located in the Ounila Valley and was on the caravan route connecting the Sahara to Marrakech.We enjoyed staying three nights at the peaceful and comfortable Riad – Paradise of Silence! We savored the spectacular sunrises before breakfast!A drive to nearby Ouarzazate is the African movie film capital – nicknamed “OUARZAWOOD”! ‘The Jewel of the Nile’ — with Michael Douglas — was first film made here at Atlas Studios in 1985.Morocco can also be filmed to look like Egypt, like in the 1999 movie ‘The Mummy’… Atlas Studios filmography.Our entertaining Moroccan guide received his technical film degree, and has worked as a movie technician on several films at Atlas Studios……He was very helpful explaining how all the productions worked, with different camera angles, when blue green screens were used, how the sets changed for different movies — really a good dose of movie magic!The palm tree on wheels and various other props — some are just profiles. ‘The Kingdom of Heaven’ set is in the background. We would recommend Nicole Kidman’s 2015 ‘Queen of the Desert’ filmed here — based on the real story of Gertrude Bell.A short drive is the Fint (hidden) Oasis with another old village. Its picturesque landscape has made it popular for film makers.We hired a local guide to show us around the village and take us to this relaxing spot — above the green Palmeraie — to enjoy a wonderful tagine lunch.
We followed the ‘101’ south along the west coast of Africa. Before arriving in Agadir we stopped to explore some Jurassic limestone caverns carved by the sea — Caves of Cape Ghir.There were a few petroglyphs visible — the Caves of Cape Ghir are known for the discovery of neolithic flint and other evidence of ancient people.We are staying in a condo at the marina in Agadir — excellent location, a pleasant harbor, good restaurants and a 3-mile long paved beach promenade, ‘The Corniche’.Paradise Valley was a day trip into the nearby foothills of the Atlas Mountains.Pink sandstone and sloped rocks make Paradise Valley a popular recreation area.It seems semester break starts today at the university so students are celebrating with a relaxing day in Paradise Valley!Swimming, diving, hollering — we are experiencing a local holiday. Paradise ValleyMeanwhile back to the long sandy beach of Agadir for another sunset on the Atlantic coast.Souss Massa National Park is very large and protects many local fauna and flora. It stretches along the coast from the Souss River valley in the north to the Massa River Valley in the south (picture – near Sidi Binzarne). Beautiful fields of wildflowers, flamingos and spoonbills in the river delta.Our NP guide, Mohammad, showed us the argan trees and how to harvest and crush the seeds for oil. In Souss Massa NP – Rokein StationHe also guided us around a driving loop where we saw numerous ostriches. This is a female and we saw her 5 offspring as well as the darker colored male. Souss Massa NP – Rokein Station.We saw several of this beautifully horned antelope species called Addax. This is a male with a dark patch of hair between his horns — females are light colored. Souss Massa NP – Rokein Station.The Dorcas Gazelle is small — more skittish. This is an endangered species that is protected but poachers are still a problem out side the park. Souss Massa NP – Rokein Station.…and yes we made it back to walk the beach in Agadir for another Sunset.We enjoyed Mama Caterina twice – a local Italian restaurant on the marina for……the gift of good coffee! also good food. Mama CaterinaShopping for souvenirs at the Carrefour – ha ha ha – very Moroccan!We joined many on the beach for our last night in Agadir. A very pleasant week here.
Camels! Beach! Sunset! Life on the Atlantic Coast of Africa in EssaouiraThe Camels came every day to sit on the beach hoping tourists would want to go for a ride, or have their picture taken, or maybe they were enjoying being at home on the sand. EssaouiraWhen we walked to the south end of the beach we liked viewing this rock out cropping we called Camel Rock. This is where the river outflow is mixing with the sea. EssaouiraOn the north end of Essaouira beach is the Port with Morocco’s largest Fishing Fleet. And lots of gulls looking for an easy meal!Near sunset, some of the fishing boats at the Port Bastion — you can see the canons on the top of the Scala, dating back to the Portuguese Era. This area has been in use since the Phoenicians — pre-Roman times. EssaouiraLooking towards the North Bastion and the Medina Skala. A lively square in the foreground before you dive into the maze of alleys of the souks. EssaouiraBut of course some are ‘Too Busy Saving The World’!!!Enjoying the sunset from the North Bastion with the soaring gulls. EssaouiraAFCON-25 has Fan Zones set up around the country to watch the African Football Championships. EssaouiraMorocco made it to the Finals! The Essaouira JumboTron showing all the action — AFCON-25. Afterwards the fans drove around in cars and motorcycles tooting their horns for an hour and a half. (But alas they did not cinch the title in the last game and it was quiet.)Spices are everywhere even in the grocery store. EssaouiraWe had a good chicken tagine and couscous lunch at Riad Mimouna overlooking the sea. EssaouiraWalking through the tide pools — at the north beach — during low tide. EssaouiraCan you have too many sunsets??? And with a horse riding on the beach in Essaouira! They liked to gallop the length of the beach which was fun to watch.Watching the Sun another evening melt into the Atlantic with the gulls. Essaouira.
An hour drive south from Marrakech into the foothills brought us to the village of Amizmiz and the precious Maroc Lodge Atlas Mountain Retreat.The peaceful boutique hotel’s restaurant is where we had our breakfast and dinners — many birds singing to us in the courtyard. Maroc Lodge.A warm fire, candlelight and a good home cooked meal was a nice way to end a tranquil gentle rainy day. Maroc LodgeThe lodge’s owner Bruno Dubois-Roquebert — standing under his father’s portrait. His father — a surgeon for King Mohammed V in Rabat — bought this property in 1939. Bruno regaled us with stories after dinner from his background transporting artworks — to his meeting Pierre Bergé and assisting with the Berber Museum at Majorelle Gardens. Bruno is presently on their Board of Directors!Amizmiz suffered a devastating earthquake in 2023 which is now mostly all recovered — Maroc Lodge luckily did not have damage. Due to the rains we unfortunately did not explore the surrounding area.The garden pathways are softly lit at night with lovely lanterns. Only a third of the property is developed– leaving the rest natural for future walking paths. Maroc LodgeOur large villa under huge olive trees — aptly called ‘Serenity’ by previous guests — furnished with family furniture and Berber artifacts. Architect Claire Patteet was hired to make this vision a reality to honor Bruno’s father. Maroc LodgeAnother wander through the gardens by a wonderful stone wall. We can appreciate why Bruno is a natural fit for the Marjorelle Gardens Foundation. It was our privilege to have time here and a visit with him.The gorgeous infinity pool! We would love to come back and enjoy it on a warmer day. This is a special mountain retreat — consider making some time in your life to be here. Maroc Lodge Atlas Mountain Retreat.
